![]() ![]() If you want to change your ratio then you should look at FMUs. In my experience they are almost if not always 1:1 rate. As I alluded too, I'll hold on to it for now and if the std spring is too tight without adjustment, I'll move to the spring that came with the kit.Ĭlick to expand.Generally a FPR raises your base fuel pressure. The reason I retained the original spring is the height inside the red chamber is actually taller, and the smaller spring applied nearly no pressure when I first installed it. ![]() The Toyota spring is longer than the one in the kit, I retained its use for now, *IF* I find the original spring is too tight, I'll disassemble the unit and install the spring that came with the kit. In either case the cost to do the mod is at maximum $20(to pay someone to machine the housing) As I alluded too the beginning, you can have the bell part machined down about 1.5mm, or you can replace the wafer thing gasket with a much thicker one. You can kind of see the assembly disappear inside the B&M housing. The only problem is as suggected above, the base of the Toyota FPR is not thick enough to be tightened in place with just the flange that is part of the assembly. ![]()
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